Fri Oct 14, 2011 3:05 pm by wrathone11
I've seen several techniques and read a bunch about different techniques for getting different shades in your colors, but I aint no expert so take it all with a grain of salt.
Watering down a color should change the dilution of the color but not the color itself, the only way I can really explain that is taking a yellow marker and putting it on white paper you have the yellow that the marker is meant to be. Now if you take that same yellow marker and put it on a transparency sheet (like just a plastic sheet) you still have that yellow, but it's more transparent it's more of just giving a slight hue when you hold it up to a sheet of white paper. I don't even know if what I just said makes any sense in trying to explain, hope it does.
Adding a different color to the color you want to change will actually change the color itself, a technique I saw explained by Mario Barth once seems to work really well when I'm coloring and want thing to blend and transition. If you've got, lets say orange on your needles and your going to fade to a yellow, in that transition area don't clean your needle to get the orange off before jumping into the yellow just dip it in the yellow and roll. It ends up giving some really nice looking transitions and you end up with some color work that really looks nice and natural in the transitions. Some would argue that the color is not reproducible if you need to do touch up, but so what? You know what you did to get it and going back in for touch up just dip in some orange and then some yellow and go, it works and it looks nice.
Another technique I've picked up, mostly for small areas, is mixing inks on my needle to get the color I want. I'll dip in say a yellow and a blue to get a green shade I want then maybe dip in orange to tweak the shade a little. This gets messy sometimes because to check the shade I'll do a little flick down of the wrist on a clean area of my workstation next to the ink cups to see what the ink looks like, I set aside an area of my workstation set up just for this kind of mixing so I can do the "flick check" normally right behind the ink cup area. When I say it's messy I don't mean your flicking ink everywhere, a small drop will fall on the barrier film set down on your work area right behind the ink cups. When you do your station break down it's on you protective barrier so it just picks up in your clear plastic barrier and is disposed of. I've had some really good results with this and seen some much better artists than me have some really great results with it.
Lastly, I go over lightly shaded areas with color all the time, just make sure you're not damaging the skin when you do it. You already know if it looks like it doesn't want anymore work it's best to just cut it off and finish it in the next session. I also have gotten away from strictly working from dark colors to light and like where my art is going much more now. I think the dark to light technique is a good start point for beginning artists to understand how tattooing works and have a grasp of a tired and true tattoo method that's been the standard for years. Once you get going and really start improving the dark to light is one that can be, not ignored, but broken in many cases. Light to dark can have some really nice effects on color and it's transitions.
Man I feel like I typed too much, but just wanted to throw some technique stuff out there for some folks to try out.
Good Luck