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    • #13643
      dreamz6669
      Member

      i’ve been fortunate enough to get my hands on some aaron cain, john clark and a dringenberg…:) * now i’m broke and have to eat top ramen straight for a month* but its worthed it :)

      heres my opinion…
      aaron cain -acantha liner= hits fast and hard..*oucH*
      aaron cain – zekonah shader= super nice and smooth..but then i packed it into my pelican box and messed up the contacted point..now i gotta learn how to tune it myself…damn :(

      john clark- single coil = still getting used to it..but it’s great on black and gray work

      dringenberg- replace the original coils with 1.5…super nice…puts down my lines like a champ

      but, all in all…it’s how you tune it yourself and learn how to flow with it…*poof*

    • #16223

      Sounds like you got your hands on some top notch machines. Are you an apprentice or a Pro? Be careful when you purchase these machines on eBay – most are just knock offs – and do not have the quality parts. Remember that most reputible sales companies will only sell to licensed artists or professional studios.

    • #16224

      i just landed a sunskin big V liner and it is f%$kin sweeet , best built machine and straight out of the crete it rocks ….smoth as and perfectly made cost $$ but im gettin a shader and paker asap …. the best machine iv had by far …found other builders latly and will try them to and will let you all know how they fair ;)

    • #16225
      Admin
      Member

      I’ve got a few Sunskin machines also and love them!

    • #16226
      tatmanred7
      Member

      hi im tattoer in uk if you want quality machine look up jimmy jacks on myspace hes from scotland very well handmade they cost around 250gbp but worth every penny

    • #16227
      s.l.covert
      Member

      If you are going to do tattoos, you will need to either learn to tune your machines or find someone to tune them. You can burn up $400 on an Aaron Cain etc… but it won’t stay in tune forever.

      A good machine is a huge step in the right direction. Much easier to tune and maintain. On the other hand a crappy machine can do beautiful work when properly tuned.

      The cheap machines will vibrate out of adjustment in a hurry and will break springs etc…

      The frame needs to have good strong threads. The screws need to be grade 5 or 8, anything lower than five will not allow enough torque to keep the coils tight and your a-bar and springs in alignment. Anything higher than 8 requires more torque than even a good frame can handle without eventually stripping.

      I use grade 8 screws on coils, tube vices, and springs. Grade 5 is better for binders if they are copper, aluminum, or brass. 8’s are good for steel binders.

    • #16228
      Nightliner
      Participant

      I wrote in another section that as long as the frame is geometrically correct; meaning the everything is slanted and tilted the way it’s supposed to be, then you should be able to create a decent machine. I would stay away from bolt up frames as these are more trouble than they’re worth, IMO. If you don’t know how to tune your machine, then learn before you start tattooing. Tuning your machine was what apprentices learned in the begininng before they were allowed to touch skin back when I was learning.
      Best machine in my opinion is not a brand name, over priced work of art, but a functioning tool that puts in a solid tattoo, and does what you need it to do.
      If you spend the time to make at least one yourself, then you’ll appreciate your machines more. Or at least take one apart and put it back together again, cut your own springs, stuff like that. Besides saving yourself a lot of money, your understanding of the tools you use for your trade will greatly improve. It’s hard for some stranger to build a machine that fits your style of tattooing. So, at least learn to set it up. and good luck. And by the way, no machine does beautiful work, it’s the artist that does beautiful work, tools just help the process.

    • #16229

      i just bought 2 machines from Joshua Carlton ! has any body heard anything about him or his machines ? i have not received them yet ! but am really stoked to actually have some real machines in my hands!

    • #16230
      sparticius
      Member

      Recently I bought a “handmade” liner from edshead tattoo’s in the uk. Awesome! Hits like a hammer and the ink goes in beautifully, also bought a colour packer from Micky Bee, again awesome! Love ’em to bits! :lol:

    • #16231
      BigSerg
      Member

      (Apprenticing 2 months)

      I picked up a brass shader and liner from Paco Rollins for a fair price. Thats what my mentor recommended when I told him i was on a tight budget. These machines are quality, and overall workers!!I had to adjust a bit but that was for my preference..They are a bit heavy about 8.7 oz but thats not a problem for me, I find it beneficial starting with a heavier machine. IMO.

    • #16232
      starterkit44
      Member

      @Nightliner wrote:

      I wrote in another section that as long as the frame is geometrically correct; meaning the everything is slanted and tilted the way it’s supposed to be, then you should be able to create a decent machine. I would stay away from bolt up frames as these are more trouble than they’re worth, IMO. If you don’t know how to tune your machine, then learn before you start tattooing. Tuning your machine was what apprentices learned in the begininng before they were allowed to touch skin back when I was learning.
      Best machine in my opinion is not a brand name, over priced work of art, but a functioning tool that puts in a solid tattoo, and does what you need it to do.
      If you spend the time to make at least one yourself, then you’ll appreciate your machines more. Or at least take one apart and put it back together again, cut your own springs, stuff like that. Besides saving yourself a lot of money, your understanding of the tools you use for your trade will greatly improve. It’s hard for some stranger to build a machine that fits your style of tattooing. So, at least learn to set it up. and good luck. And by the way, no machine does beautiful work, it’s the artist that does beautiful work, tools just help the process.

      i agree

    • #16233
      Viper65
      Member

      Well….I initially purchased the hildbrandt kit and am extremely pleased with the quality of the machine the performance and everything else. I know its not a top-o-the-line rig but it gets the job done. I also agree with the guy that said its not the machine, its the guy/gal driving it!

    • #16234
      kevinseo
      Member

      Good job,Now what the biggest problem to me is the tattoo machine clean.

    • #16235
      Tarantula
      Member

      Bag ’em

    • #16237

      @christianshane wrote:

      i just bought 2 machines from Joshua Carlton ! has any body heard anything about him or his machines ? i have not received them yet ! but am really stoked to actually have some real machines in my hands!

      Yes, def. buy his DVDs.
      Good information from him.
      Never used his machines though.

    • #16238
      jcarmack
      Participant

      There are many good machines out there. The best thing that you can do is learn the parts of the machine, how they interact with each other, how the machine is set up for each application. As a tattoo artist the tattoo machine is an extension of you and you need a quality machine and an understanding of how it functions and how to tune it to get the desired result.

      There are cheap machines that can be bought that have a good frame on them. Once you have a good frame you can start from there and buy some good coils, springs and all the other parts from a reputable supplier or builder and have yourself a good machine.

      You need to know how to tune your machines so that you don’t turn your clients skin into hamburger and also that you can get the ink into the skin correctly.

      There’s some good information available on machine tuning is some of the tattoo books out there as well as videos that you can buy. It is imperative as a new artist or as an apprentice to take the time to understand your machine and how to keep it properly maintained and tuned.

    • #16240
      Spider
      Participant

      I see machines like ink or needles. I currently switched over to Cam Machines. Relatively decently priced and they run great, my liners run at 4.5 volts, and my shaders run at 5.3 volts perfectly, sometimes even too hard.

    • #38339
      greg taylor
      Participant

      i was personally think of buying some hildebrandt machines i like the 44 caliber as a liner and 38 special as a shader

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