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    • #15085
      ben.catterall
      Participant

      I’m from Australia and have never seen a nickle or a dime…. Can someone tell me how thick they are in millimeter measurement please…. very hard to adjust to a nickle or dime gap if i have no idea how big that is. haha

      Cheers,

    • #22082

      About 1.25 and 1.50 mm To be honest, I’ve found the nickel and dime rule to be pretty irrelevant, given each machine will have it’s own ‘sweet spot’ where it will give the best effect, so even using a nickel or a dime, you’re still going to have to adjust the contact screw away from that distance anyway :lol: It’s a good ‘rule of thumb’, but by no means a set in stone rule :) My advice (feel free to ignore) is this… Hold your machine so you’re looking down on the top and run it. Adjust the gap of the contact screw till the peg on the armature bar is making a perfect 8 shape (or infinity loop, depending on which way you’re holding it :lol: ) and when you then put on the needle etc, you should have no issues :)

    • #22081
      ben.catterall
      Participant

      Cheers for that mate. Yeah most of my machines are set up to the sweet spot, but i just wanted to try the nickel and dime gap to see how it works. :D
      I have had them running pretty well for the past year with no real problems, but still trying to learn as much as i can, so just keep pulling the machines apart and trying different caps and wraps for the different machines i have (5 coil and one rotary). Its pretty fun. especially now that im getting better at it. :lol:

    • #22085

      hahahahaha
      love it

    • #22084

      @ben.catterall wrote:

      Cheers for that mate. Yeah most of my machines are set up to the sweet spot, but i just wanted to try the nickel and dime gap to see how it works. :D
      I have had them running pretty well for the past year with no real problems, but still trying to learn as much as i can, so just keep pulling the machines apart and trying different caps and wraps for the different machines i have (5 coil and one rotary). Its pretty fun. especially now that im getting better at it. :lol:

      No worries, glad to be of help :) If you’re tuning them into the sweet spot already, not really any need to go down the nickle and dime route just for the sake of it :) I found that when I started varying my method ‘because others were doing it’, my work suffered as a result, so I’m a big believer in getting all the info you can, but then from all of that finding out what works best for you, and then going with that method :)

    • #22083
      robroy289
      Participant

      Herd that!! Once you find that happy medium where your lines look great and color is sticking good then you start having fun!!!

    • #22086
      Rees
      Member

      When I first began tattooing I was taught to use dime for liner, nickel for shader and color. The more I studied and read though, the more I realized that while effective to an extent, there are better ways to go about it. The concept is using the air gap to basically control the speed of the needle for different applications. Eikon put out a series of short magazines called machine-gun magazine. This is where the green monster came from for those of you who have heard of it. The final issue built a liner, shader, and color packer. The air gaps on all three machines were quite similar, instead, the difference was in the springs, A-bars, coils, and resistors. I built several machines based on this theory and love them, they run smoother and at lower voltage than my old nickel and dime machines did as well. The liner uses thick springs, with a very light a-bar, and a very small 22uf capcitor. The shaders has mid weight a- bar and springs are around 17 and 18, it runs on a 33uf capacitor. The packer has very thin springs, and a big ole meaty a-bar with a 47uf capacitor. the point is you needle stroke stays closer to the same length, so the voltage stays lower, the machines run smoother. It’s worth checking out the magazines, the torrents can be found here if your interested… http://torrentz.eu/57c66f17ac9288efec19cd8a1705d3446b8e303c

    • #22087
      Jester Ink
      Participant

      I’ve also heard this theroy. Also, it’s how i have mine set up. From what i’ve read and gathered is, The farther the contact screw is set, the slower it runs (for coloring and shading) and closer the faster (for lining). i don’t know if i’m doing it wrong, but either way it works for me.

    • #22088
      ben.catterall
      Participant

      @Rees wrote:

      When I first began tattooing I was taught to use dime for liner, nickel for shader and color. The more I studied and read though, the more I realized that while effective to an extent, there are better ways to go about it. The concept is using the air gap to basically control the speed of the needle for different applications. Eikon put out a series of short magazines called machine-gun magazine. This is where the green monster came from for those of you who have heard of it. The final issue built a liner, shader, and color packer. The air gaps on all three machines were quite similar, instead, the difference was in the springs, A-bars, coils, and resistors. I built several machines based on this theory and love them, they run smoother and at lower voltage than my old nickel and dime machines did as well. The liner uses thick springs, with a very light a-bar, and a very small 22uf capcitor. The shaders has mid weight a- bar and springs are around 17 and 18, it runs on a 33uf capacitor. The packer has very thin springs, and a big ole meaty a-bar with a 47uf capacitor. the point is you needle stroke stays closer to the same length, so the voltage stays lower, the machines run smoother. It’s worth checking out the magazines, the torrents can be found here if your interested… http://torrentz.eu/57c66f17ac9288efec19cd8a1705d3446b8e303c

      I completely agree! I love Eikon device gear. I have a green monster too and it runs brilliantly. I also have there true spring set which I now use their springs and a-bars on my other machine and have taken that theory into rewiring my caps on my other machines to suit better. Now I’m saving up to get another green monster and maybe one of their power supplies which I have read are awesome!!

    • #22090
      Rees
      Member

      @ben.catterall wrote:

      @Rees wrote:

      When I first began tattooing I was taught to use dime for liner, nickel for shader and color. The more I studied and read though, the more I realized that while effective to an extent, there are better ways to go about it. The concept is using the air gap to basically control the speed of the needle for different applications. Eikon put out a series of short magazines called machine-gun magazine. This is where the green monster came from for those of you who have heard of it. The final issue built a liner, shader, and color packer. The air gaps on all three machines were quite similar, instead, the difference was in the springs, A-bars, coils, and resistors. I built several machines based on this theory and love them, they run smoother and at lower voltage than my old nickel and dime machines did as well. The liner uses thick springs, with a very light a-bar, and a very small 22uf capcitor. The shaders has mid weight a- bar and springs are around 17 and 18, it runs on a 33uf capacitor. The packer has very thin springs, and a big ole meaty a-bar with a 47uf capacitor. the point is you needle stroke stays closer to the same length, so the voltage stays lower, the machines run smoother. It’s worth checking out the magazines, the torrents can be found here if your interested… http://torrentz.eu/57c66f17ac9288efec19cd8a1705d3446b8e303c

      I completely agree! I love Eikon device gear. I have a green monster too and it runs brilliantly. I also have there true spring set which I now use their springs and a-bars on my other machine and have taken that theory into rewiring my caps on my other machines to suit better. Now I’m saving up to get another green monster and maybe one of their power supplies which I have read are awesome!!

      Buying another one would be nice, but I garantee you with a little time and effort you could order the parts you want a put it together yourself, learn abit about tuning, and save some major cash. I paid about 300 for the frames, coils, tru-springs sets and nuts and bolts and built 3 machines…What I don’t get about Eikon is they charge the same amount wether you buy the kit to build it your self, of they put it together for you.

    • #22089
      ben.catterall
      Participant

      I bought the kit and built it myself. I think the good part about that was I got extra springs and a-bars. But now I have lots of their parts. Just keep ordering whenever I have money. :D

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