machine voltage

[thesandman54r]

wrong section before

What is the most effective way to reduce the voltage required to run machine while loaded I have noticed as much as 4 volts difference between the voltage required when I set up to the voltage when I load a 5rl in my liner and 7M1 in my color packer or shader I have a dime gap between both my contact point and between the coils and a bar on my liner and a nickel on my shader color packer machines I am using disposable freeflow tubes and hildbrandt 44 magnum liner with 10 wrap coils short front spring and backspring 22uf cap and 444marlin 10 wrap long front and back 22uf cap and 38 calibre 8 wrap standard front and long back springs
38 calibre color packer sets up at about 8 volts but loaded needs about 12.5
44 magnum liner sets up about 9.4 and loaded takes about 12.8
444 marlin shader sets up at about 9.7 and loaded takes about 13.4
I was taught to use two rubber bands
in CR Jordan’s book he talks about filling the threads in the coils I wonder if that may help if I either use the steel wool method or buy longer screws maybe a thinner back spring heavier a bar I think mine are steel maybe I can change materials maybe try pure iron

[Ramenuzumaki]

Hmmm. May be a power supply issue. None of my hildies run any higher than 9.5 loaded. I Can get them as low as 5-6 no load. My 444 marlin with a wide back spring runs even lower. I’m using a Hurricane HP-2 Power supply, and a fully RCA set up. Rocking the .357 mag .30 carb .44 winchester .444 marlin and .22 rimfire for hildies. I also have a Danny Fowler Flatline, and two custom build machines. You could try filling in the cores, but maybe first try to get some new springs/a-bars. All my fast liners use a speed bar which really speeds things up. My slow liners use a medium a bar. using different spring thicknesses/widths/materials could help you out. You’d be surprised how much you can accomplish just by swapping out a cap, and/or springs.

[thesandman54r]

I prefer to use an oring as it just sounds smoother but taking it off drops it by about a volt on my liner I reduced some of the spring tension on all three and got the loaded voltage down considerably so im going to order some thinner rear springs and as far as the caps go I was considering going to a 47 on my shader and a 33 on my packer my liner however is the one I am most concerned with getting the voltage down on I have the packer down to about 10 loaded and the shader to about 9.5 but the liner while I can get the voltage down more it has very little throw I run off the tips of the needles not the tube so I like it to have a nice throw and I cant get it down less than 10 to 10.5 loaded which still seems excessive it does have some give atthis voltage and isnt hitting excessively hard so my question is if the results are the same ie if the hit is the same and the throw is good and the machine runs smooth and doesnt cut out or get excessively hot does the voltage really matter I have noticed that versus my chinese knockoff g machine I had to really slow my hand speed down Im thinking this is because the chinese machine was probably 6 wrap shorty coils and the 44 magnum is 10 wrap which slows down the machine a lot if the coils werent so much taller on the 38 caliber 8 wrap I would swap coils plus I love the way the 38 packs in color btw I loaded a sterile needle and tube and set up like I was going to tattoo prepped an area on the back of my hand with hand sanitizer and green soap and set up run a couple of blood lines just to see the reaction in skin and about 10.2 seems to run the way I want it I dont like my liner to have much give as I dont really like it to bog while im lining as I have noticed it doesnt create as clean a line eg go over it and bog I will have to touch the line up or have to run the whole line again also I noticed i blow out lines when I bog as i will hit a less dense section of skin the needle will get full throw penetration and bam blowout thanks for taking time to read my ramble and thanks ramenuzumaki for taking the time to answer

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