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    • #15509

      So, I worked in one tattoo shop for a week before I left, and I only used my shader there once. Before I left the other artist sabotaged my machine, and I have not been able to fix whatever he did. I’ve fiddled with about everything I can save for taking it apart and rebuilding it. What happens is I’m running my shader and it will start losing power, eventually stopping. Then I have to flick the nipple to get it running again. It will run fine for about a minute, the repeat. Eventually I just bought a new machine so I could keep working, but id love to fix it just to say piss off and have a good back up machine.

      Anyone able to help.?

    • #24787

      The only thing I can think of is possibly carbon scoring on your contact screw/springs
      check for that. if so you can use an emery board to gently brush it off. make sure it is an emery board. emery boards/paper etc are made of tiny flecks of glass instead of sand. as such they do not heat up with friction.

      do you have a picture of the machine?

      front, back, top, and sides please :D

    • #24788

      Yeah pictures would definitely help.
      It could be your contact screw, the screw adjustment on the side maybe slightly loose so when you run your machine it starts to slowly push off the front spring.
      Which in return would not make a complete contact, and stopping electromagnetic cycle from staying consistent.
      If not that it sounds like some sort of wires are touching the frame slightly and are causing it to short out.
      Do you know what your machine frame is made of? Was there a yoke on your machine?
      If possible post up a few pictures of the machine.
      We could all definitely get a better idea, and most likely figure it out.

    • #24789

      Yea I second Ram, mine was acting up and found it was the contact screw connecting to the front spring.. no “actual” contact. It was dirty so I cleaned it up and worked . Hopefully thats your case and you get it up and running again :)

    • #24790

      Thanks guys, I’ll definitely get some pics up! I thought it was the contact points initially, and I have fussed with it so much it feels unreal. I’ll clean the point and springs(it probably needs it), but I’m not sure how someone could mess that up intentionally. Unfortunately someone witnessed my shader being fucked with. Im wondering could he have removed a part? I would have noticed something obvious, but could something small mess it up like that? I’m definitely going to clean it and put up pictures. I really appreciate your help,I’m ashamed that I don’t know my machines better. I had an apprenticeship but I basically had to teach myself.

      Again, thank you guys for being so kind!

    • #24791

      Hey guys I think we may have found our answer,


      I’m guessing he replaced your capacitor, it would make so much sense as that is something that you probably wouldn’t notice. Its not missing or anything its just an old burnt one, he probably had an old machine that was doing that and jacked yours to fix it

    • #24792

      Wow, okay, can anyone direct me to instructions on how to replace one? I looked up buying a new one and it mentioned soldering. And again, thank you guys!

    • #24793

      Thats an awesome troubleshoot there… :D

    • #24794

      it depends on where you get it bru.
      Some places have Prewired coils that have caps for like 12$. i think Hildbrant’s coils are prewired I couldbe wrong though.
      then there are prewired capacitors. Eikon’s are prewired, but need to be used with their Eikon crown coils.
      now as far as replacing and soldering your new cap onto your old coils this is what you need to do.

      1. Remove coils from Machine
      2. Remove heat wrap from both Solder tags on both poles of the machine
      3. Gentle melt the solder on the tags to remove the old capacitor.
      4. Make sure that there is enough wire sticking out on both ends of the new capacitor to solder onto old tags
      5. Making sure the North and South ends are on the proper side solder the new capacitor onto the old tags
      6. Add new heat wrap, or electrical tape to insulate.
      7. Place coils back into machine making sure the taller coil is in front.

      Remember you need to have both the cap, and the coils soldered to the solder tags. :3

    • #24795

      Thank you very much:)

    • #24796

      I’m guessing this worked for you?

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