Science of Shading Web Seminar Notes

[Ramenuzumaki]

Here are the notes requested by Robroy that I took during the web seminar I attended hosted by Intenze Ink, and given by Mario Barth. The original notes were in point form, and I stupidly waited probably a month before transcribing them so even I didnt understand some of my point form notes. However, I transcribed them as best as possible, and tried to organize them as best as possible. I hope they help~

@Mario Barth wrote:

Science of Shading Seminar
Intense Web Seminar with Mario Barth
Notes

A thinner back spring will hit softer, run faster, and cause less trauma to the skin. When turning your machines, and setting up your springs your contact screw should rest at: twelve o’clock for lining, one o’clock for colour, and two o’clock for shading.

Bug Pin has more needles, and closer together. Normally longer tapir, and smaller points.
Curved mags are best for colour, and shading. They are easier to get into the skin, and have a less chance of causing trauma to the skin.

Needles are made in two different styles: Stainless steel, and carbon surfaced.

Stainless steel is a smoother surface, cases no residue, and are more common. However, they have less surface area for ink to grab onto. Carbon surfaced needles are rough, which gives it more surface area for ink to grab onto. Never touch a carbon surfaced needle. They must also be free of tarnish. View through eye loop.

Master your tool to become a great artist. Use either rotary, or coil. It is easier to become a great artist if you can master your tool rather than switch between them, and only be mediocre at one or the other.

Under shading is when you colour over black to create strong gradient of colours without using many colours. Top shading is when you do a soft shader over colour. It goes in easy, and heals bright! Works with colour, and black and grey. This technique is a must for all artists. Using a liner for colour is also viable. This is for smaller areas that require colouring, or a specific colour for outlines. If using a cutback liner you must be sure not to penetrate the skin as deep. It runs faster which gives much better coverage, and lighter greys. Spit shading is when you do a fast whipping motion. Use a flat needle, and 20% diluted black. This gives the Old School Style effect.

Wet wiping is essential. Wet a papertowel before wiping off excess ink. This will cause less trama, and if you wipe softly you will not cause any bleeds. When doing top shading you must not dry wipe. Always wet wipe. If you do not need bactine do not use it as it changes the surface of the skin. When using a wet wipe you have more control when going from light to dark. You can shade grey over black to give a different effect. Using Intenze Shading Solution is better than pure distilled water as it has added products. Use white to control colours as water will change the look of the colour.

All blacks have an undertone: blue, white, green. Train your eyes to recognize your blacks, and pick the proper one for the piece you are doing.

Check out popular black, and grey artists: Mark Mahoney, Andy Engel, and Mike Demasi.

The lightfastness of a colour determines how true the colour will be when healed. It can cause some colours to become more of a pastel. To test this simple put on a pair of gloves, drop some pigment onto a piece of paper, and stripe it out with your finger.

Grey washes have something washed out of them. To acquire grey you simply add white to black. True black does not have an undertone. It is great for grey washes, and turns grey when mixed with white.

Essential silver will not turn pastel. Do not dilute essential silver. It works well as a white over colour.

Blood lines are only good when doing large pieces if you can finish the piece. If you cannot finish it do not attempt to add blood lines as you will lose your lines during the healing process. Be extra careful not to cause scarring.

Feather in light tones, and let breathe for a few minutes. Some light tones do not show up right away due to blood, redness, and swelling. Use a colour mixed with white for more intense highlights.

It is always good to take picture during your tattoo process. This way you can see what you are doing, and what steps you are taking while doing it. This will help you learn from your own techniques, and refine them. Be sure to always wet wipe. Premixing your greys: 60% lining black, 20% shading solution, 10% rose water, 10% witch hazel.

Witch hazel has a calming effect tot he skin. Rose water has a thicker texture than just distilled water. Intenze shading solution is superior due to the higher quality that they provide. When using tribal black be sure to use a wetter piece of paper towel as it smears, and makes a mess while diluted. Your grey washes are personal preference. Try different mixtures! White is a thicker ink. Be sure to use less than 10%. Silverback greywashes are good, but it is always best to make your own to fit your own preference. Premix your greys for larger pieces. Solid extra white to work in solid. Let heal, and work over top. Yellow with orange on top after healing a bit. Always save white for last. Snow white is used for mixing with colours as it is thinner. Do not use for highlights. Opaque white is thicker, and makes it harder to blend with colours.

*Web seminar hosted by Intenze Colours, and given by Mario Barth. Notes taken, and transcribed by Nicholas Crites-Prieur of UzumakiCORP.™ Tattoos

[jerstolp]

is 3:00 oclock a typo?

[Ramenuzumaki]

yeah ill fix that. its supposed to be 12 1 2 haha

EDIT:
Fixed

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