The old school trick of the trade was the dime gap liner
nickel gap shader. Take the armature bar assembly and
press down on the armature bar’s nipple (the spot where
the needle bar’s loop attaches to the grommet and then
to the armature bar) and press down on it until the bottom
of the armature bar hits the top of the front coil (the
one closest to the frame’s tube vise). You will notice a
gap in between the contact screw’s point and the front
spring. This is the gap that you would essentially stick
the coin (either a nickel or a dime) into. This is not really
a solid way to measure and or adjust the speed of your
machine, but it has been the time honored tradition for
some time. Some artists will tell you to use the same
technique, but stick the coin under the armature bar (in
between the front coil and the a-bar) and use that as the
measurement. Whether you are measuring point gap or
air gap with your coins, you can see the general jumping
off point, and like everything else: the proof is in the skin.
Dime / Nickel – Tuning
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Rear Spring
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Like the front spring, rear springs come in different gauges and shapes as well as a host of lengths...
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There are limitless companies that sell lower end materials and gear, however this text will not go into that...
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Multi-meter is useful in the tattoo studio
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You should become familiar with a digital voltmeter or multimeter. It is recommended that all tattoo artists own a...
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Front Spring
, Uncategorized, front spring, machine, tuning, 0
The front spring is mounted to the armature bar, and is the piece of metal that will make contact...
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Chemical Sanitation
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Author’s Opinion on Disposibles
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Contact Relation Triangle – Helps to Tune Machines
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Triangle (ABC) starts with point (A) being where the contact point touches the front spring. Triangle (ABC) continues with...
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Working in Skin – The design of this project…
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Skin can be a very unforgiving medium to work in. Skin can also be really rewarding. Being a tattoo...
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